Habitat & Environment

The right enclosure is the single most important thing you can give a turtle. Get this right and many other welfare problems simply do not appear.

Tank size

The accepted ITTA rule of thumb for aquatic turtles is about 15 litres of water per centimetre of the turtle's shell length (roughly 10 US gallons per inch). A 10 cm hatchling therefore needs at minimum a 150-litre tank — not because it cannot fit in something smaller, but because turtles need room to swim, dive, and behave naturally. Bigger is always better. A small enclosure is one of the most common causes of stress in young turtles.

Water depth and swim space

Water should be at least 1.5 to 2 times deeper than the turtle's shell length. Aquatic turtles are strong swimmers and need to be able to dive properly. Shallow water restricts natural movement and can cause shell deformities over time.

The basking area

Every aquatic turtle needs a dry place to climb fully out of the water and warm up under a lamp. This is called the basking area. It must be large enough for the whole turtle to fit on, completely dry, and reach a surface temperature of between 29°C and 35°C (85–95°F). The water below should stay cooler, around 24–27°C (75–80°F) for most species.

UVB lighting — not optional

Turtles need UVB light to absorb calcium from their food. Without UVB, their shells and bones do not develop properly — a condition called metabolic bone disease, which is one of the most common and most preventable problems in pet turtles. The basking lamp provides heat; a separate UVB bulb provides the invisible UV-B wavelengths.

UVB bulbs lose their effectiveness long before they stop glowing. They must be replaced every 6 to 12 months, depending on the manufacturer, even if they still look fine.

Filtration

Turtles are messy. Their waste produces a lot of ammonia, which is toxic. Use a filter rated for at least two to three times the volume of water in your tank. Even with good filtration, you should change about 25% of the water once a week, and do a more thorough clean monthly.

Substrate (what goes on the bottom)

You have three reasonable choices: a bare bottom (easiest to clean), large smooth river rocks that the turtle cannot swallow, or no substrate at all. Do not use small gravel — turtles can and do swallow it, sometimes fatally.

Diet & Nutrition

A turtle's diet changes dramatically as it grows. Feeding an adult turtle like a hatchling is one of the most common mistakes new keepers make.

Hatchlings: mostly protein

Young, growing turtles need a lot of protein to build their bodies and shells. A hatchling's diet should be roughly 70–80% animal protein (insects, small fish, quality commercial turtle pellets) and 20–30% vegetation. Feed them daily, but only as much as they will eat in about five minutes.

Adults: the diet flips

Adult turtles need the opposite balance. About 70% leafy greens and aquatic plants, and only 30% protein. Adults can be fed every two or three days rather than daily — in the wild, they would not eat every day either. Over-feeding causes obesity and pyramiding (a serious shell deformity).

Good foods

• Dark leafy greens: collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion leaves, romaine lettuce (never iceberg)
• Aquatic plants: duckweed, water lettuce, anacharis, water hyacinth
• Vegetables: grated carrot, squash, bell pepper, green beans
• Protein: earthworms, crickets, mealworms, small pieces of fish, quality commercial pellets
• Calcium source: a piece of cuttlebone left floating in the tank for the turtle to nibble on

Foods to avoid

• Never: dairy (milk, cheese, yoghurt), bread, pasta, sugary foods, processed human food, raw chicken
• Rarely: fruit (a small treat once a week at most — too sugary)
• Iceberg lettuce has almost no nutritional value

Calcium and vitamins

Calcium is essential for shell and bone health. Most keepers provide it three ways: through proper UVB lighting (which allows the turtle to use calcium properly), through calcium-rich foods (dark leafy greens), and through a piece of cuttlebone left in the tank.

Health & Welfare

Turtles do not show pain the way mammals do. They are quiet, slow animals, and a sick turtle can look very much like a healthy one to an untrained eye. Learning the signs is one of your most important responsibilities.

Signs of a healthy turtle

• Clear, bright eyes — both open
• Smooth, hard shell with no soft spots or white patches
• Active swimming and regular basking
• Eating normally
• Alert and responsive to its surroundings

Warning signs that mean "call a vet"

• Swollen or closed eyes — often a vitamin A deficiency or eye infection
• Soft shell or visible deformities — possible metabolic bone disease
• Refusing food for more than a few days (when temperatures are correct)
• Wheezing, bubbles or mucus from the nose — respiratory infection
• White or grey patches on shell or skin — fungus or shell rot
• Lethargy, listing to one side when swimming — possible pneumonia
• Long thin droppings, or no droppings

Handling

Turtles are not cuddly pets. Most do not enjoy being held, and frequent handling causes stress. When you do need to pick a turtle up:

• Use two hands, supporting the body from underneath
• Never pick a turtle up by the tail or legs — you can cause serious injury
• Keep the turtle low to the ground in case it wriggles free
• Always wash your hands thoroughly with soap before and after

Salmonella — why hand-washing matters

Almost all turtles carry Salmonella bacteria, usually without any sign of illness in the turtle itself. People can become quite ill from it, especially children. This is not a reason to be afraid of your turtle. It is a reason to always wash your hands after touching your turtle, the tank, the water, or anything inside it.

Brumation

In the cool months of the year, some turtle species enter a slowed-down state called brumation. It is like hibernation, but for reptiles. They eat little, move slowly, and may sleep at the bottom of the tank for weeks. Not all pet turtles need to brumate — keeping the tank warm year-round is usually fine — but if your turtle does begin to brumate, do not panic. Speak to a reptile vet about how to support it safely.

Species & Ethics

Different species have very different needs. Before you bring any turtle home, you must know what species it is and what it requires for its entire life — which may be longer than you expect.

Common species you may encounter

The Junior Stage 1 Licence (Turtle Stream) covers freshwater aquatic species only. Box turtles, tortoises and sea turtles require different licences and, in the case of sea turtles, are protected by international law and may not be kept privately at all. Approved species may differ slightly between Regional Offices: in Asian and Pacific member states the Reeves' turtle and Malayan box turtle are commonly approved alongside the four core sliders.

The lifespan question

A red-eared slider bought today may still be alive when you are in your fifties. Turtles are a lifetime commitment. Before you apply for a licence, talk seriously with your family about what happens if you go to university, move home, or have other animals one day.

Never take a wild turtle

If you see a turtle in a pond, a river, on a road, or in your garden — do not take it home. Wild turtles belong in the wild. If a wild turtle appears to be injured or in danger, contact your local wildlife rescue or fisheries service. They will know what to do.

Where turtles should come from

• Adoption is the ITTA's preferred route — many turtles are surrendered every year and need homes
• Reputable, licensed breeders who can answer detailed questions about parentage and care
• Never from roadside stands, fairs, holiday markets, or sellers who cannot identify the species

The law where you live

Many countries restrict the sale of small turtles (under 10 cm / 4 inches in shell length) because of the salmonella risk to young children. Some species are protected, and some are illegal to keep without specific permits. In Singapore, the Animal & Veterinary Service (AVS) restricts which chelonians may be kept privately and at what size; in the UAE, the Ministry of Climate Change and Environment regulates the import and keeping of all CITES-listed species. Always check the law in your own country and region before acquiring any turtle. Your ITTA Field Officer will verify your local compliance as part of the licence review.

Habitat & Environment

Tortoises are land animals. They need wide, dry, open space — not a tank of water. The single biggest mistake new tortoise keepers make is treating them like turtles: cramming them into glass aquariums that are far too small, too humid, and too dark.

Floor space — the most important number

A young tortoise needs much more floor space than people expect. The ITTA rule is that the enclosure should measure, on each side, at least eight times the length of the tortoise's shell. For an adult Hermann's tortoise of 18 cm, that means an enclosure of at least 144 cm by 144 cm. Bigger is always better. Tortoises walk for hours in the wild; if they cannot walk in a straight line for at least twenty seconds, the enclosure is too small.

Tortoise table, not glass tank

The ITTA-preferred indoor enclosure is the tortoise table — a wide, shallow, open-topped wooden enclosure. Glass tanks are not recommended because they trap stale, humid air, cause the tortoise to repeatedly try to walk through the walls (which it cannot see), and rarely provide enough floor space. Outdoor enclosures, in summer and in suitable climates, are even better — tortoises benefit enormously from natural sunlight, rain, and the chance to graze on real plants.

Substrate

For most Mediterranean and temperate species (Hermann's, Russian, Greek), use a deep, dry mix of topsoil and play sand (roughly 60/40), at least 5–8 cm deep so the tortoise can dig. For tropical species (red-footed, yellow-footed) the substrate should be moister — coir-based, kept slightly damp. Never use: wood shavings (toxic to many species), small bark chips (eaten by accident), calcium sand (impaction risk), or cat litter.

Heat: a basking spot and a cool side

Tortoises are ectotherms — they cannot generate their own warmth. The enclosure must have a basking spot at one end reaching 35–38°C (95–100°F) measured at shell height, and a cool end at 21–24°C (70–75°F). This thermal gradient is essential — the tortoise moves between warm and cool zones to regulate its own temperature. A uniformly warm enclosure is a stressed one. Night-time temperatures may drop to around 18°C (65°F) for Mediterranean species; supplemental night heat is rarely needed.

UVB — just as essential as for turtles

Tortoises absolutely require UVB light to absorb dietary calcium and synthesise vitamin D3. Without it, they develop metabolic bone disease (MBD) and, in growing tortoises, the lumpy, deformed shell condition called pyramiding. Use a high-quality 10% UVB tube spanning at least half the enclosure length, replaced every 6–12 months even if it still glows. Mesh or glass between the bulb and the tortoise blocks most UVB — the bulb must shine directly into the enclosure.

Humidity

Most Mediterranean tortoises (Hermann's, Russian, Greek) need low ambient humidity (40–55%). Too-high humidity causes respiratory infections and shell rot. Tropical species are different and need higher humidity. Always check the requirements for your particular species — not all tortoises want the same climate.

Water: a shallow soaking dish, not a pond

Provide a shallow, sturdy water dish — deep enough for the tortoise to drink from and large enough to climb into and soak, but not deep enough to drown in. The water surface should be no higher than the tortoise's chin when standing. Soak hatchlings and juveniles in warm shallow water for 15–20 minutes two or three times a week to keep them well-hydrated.

Diet & Nutrition

Tortoises are strict herbivores. They are not omnivores like turtles. Feeding a tortoise meat, dog food, cat food, eggs, or insects is one of the most damaging things a keeper can do — and unfortunately a very common one.

What tortoises eat: leaves, weeds and flowers

The ideal tortoise diet is a wide variety of leafy greens, weeds, wildflowers and grasses — a "salad" that looks much more like what you'd find in a wild meadow than a supermarket. High fibre, low protein, low sugar, low fat. Fed daily, in roughly the volume of the tortoise's shell.

Good foods (the staples)

• Wild weeds: dandelion, plantain, clover, sow thistle, hawkbit, mallow, chickweed
• Leafy greens: rocket, watercress, romaine lettuce (never iceberg), spring greens, kale (in moderation), endive
• Flowers: dandelion flowers, rose petals, hibiscus, nasturtium, pansy, marigold
• Grasses and hay: particularly important for grazing species like Sulcata and Greek tortoises; timothy hay is a good year-round staple

Foods to feed only rarely or never

• Fruit: for Mediterranean species — almost never. Too sugary, causes gut upset and parasite blooms. (Tropical species like red-foots tolerate small amounts.)
• Spinach, chard, beet greens: high in oxalates that block calcium absorption — very rarely, if at all
• Any animal protein: meat, dog food, cat food, insects, eggs, cheese, yoghurt — never. Animal protein causes accelerated growth, kidney damage and severe shell pyramiding
• Iceberg lettuce, cucumber: mostly water, almost no nutrition
• Bread, pasta, rice, human food: never
• Avocado, rhubarb leaves, daffodil, foxglove, buttercup, ivy: toxic

Calcium and vitamin supplementation

Even on a varied wild-weed diet, captive tortoises usually need extra calcium. Dust food with a plain calcium carbonate powder two to three times a week, and a calcium-with-vitamin-D3 supplement once a week (less if the tortoise gets unfiltered sunlight outdoors). A piece of cuttlebone left in the enclosure for the tortoise to nibble is excellent.

Watering

Tortoises drink from their shallow water dish, but many also absorb water through soaking. Keep clean water available at all times and soak hatchlings and juveniles in warm shallow water for 15–20 minutes two or three times a week. Adult tortoises benefit from a weekly soak.

Health & Welfare

Tortoises are extraordinarily stoic. A sick tortoise can look almost identical to a healthy one for weeks. By the time something is obviously wrong, the underlying problem may have been developing for months. Learning the early signs is one of the most important things you will do as a keeper.

Signs of a healthy tortoise

• Clear, bright eyes — both fully open
• Smooth, evenly-grown shell with no soft spots, white patches, or pyramid-shaped lumps
• Active in the warm part of the day — walking, exploring, grazing
• Eating leafy greens daily
• Firm, well-formed droppings with white urate
• Strong leg movements; able to lift its own body clear off the ground when walking

Warning signs that mean "call a reptile vet"

• Swollen, closed, or runny eyes — common in respiratory infection and vitamin A deficiency
• Wheezing, clicking, gaping, bubbles from the nose — respiratory infection (RNS), one of the most common tortoise illnesses
• Soft shell, or visible pyramiding (lumpy scutes) — metabolic bone disease or chronic poor diet
• Overgrown, parrot-like beak — usually a diet too soft and too low in fibre
• White or grey crumbly patches on the shell — shell rot, often caused by too-humid conditions
• Not eating for more than a few days (when temperatures are correct and it is not a hibernating species in winter)
• Lethargy in a warm enclosure — the tortoise should be active when warm
• Runny, foul-smelling droppings, or no droppings at all

Handling

Tortoises are calm but not affectionate. They tolerate handling but do not enjoy it; frequent or rough handling causes stress. When you do need to pick up a tortoise:

• Use two hands, supporting the shell from below
• Never lift by the legs or head
• Keep the tortoise low to the ground — tortoise shells crack readily on hard floors
• Wash your hands with soap before and after handling — tortoises also carry Salmonella

Salmonella — same rule as for turtles

Like turtles, almost all tortoises carry Salmonella bacteria, usually without any sign of illness in the tortoise itself. People can become quite ill from it, particularly young children. Always wash your hands thoroughly with soap after touching the tortoise, the enclosure, the water dish, or anything inside it.

Hibernation (brumation)

Most Mediterranean and temperate tortoises — Hermann's, Russian, Greek — do hibernate in the cool months. This is healthy and natural, but it must be done properly. A tortoise that is too small, too underweight, or unwell must not be hibernated. Hibernation should be at a steady temperature of 5–10°C (40–50°F) in a controlled fridge or insulated box. Speak to a reptile vet about a hibernation plan in your first year of keeping — this is not something to learn from internet videos alone. Tropical species (red-foots, yellow-foots, Sulcatas, elongated tortoises) do not hibernate and should be kept at normal temperatures year-round.

Species & Ethics

Tortoises are a serious, multi-generational commitment. A Hermann's tortoise bought today may be passed down to your children, and possibly to their children. Before you bring any tortoise home, you must know what species it is and what it requires for an entire human lifetime.

Common species you may encounter

The Junior Stage 1 Licence (Tortoise Stream) covers Hermann's, Russian, Greek, red-footed and (in Asian member states) elongated tortoises only. Sulcatas, Indian Star tortoises and giant species require higher stages or, in the case of giants, are not permitted in private keeping at all. Egyptian tortoises are critically endangered and may not be acquired through any normal route — if you are offered one, refuse and inform your Regional Office.

The lifespan question

A Hermann's tortoise bought today, properly cared for, will very likely outlive you. Tortoises are routinely inherited. Before you apply for a licence, talk seriously with your family about who will care for the tortoise if you go to university, move home, work abroad, or one day have your own family. Some keepers write a "tortoise will" naming a successor keeper.

Never take a wild tortoise

If you see a tortoise wandering in the countryside, in a garden, or on a road in a region where tortoises are native — do not take it home. It is either someone's lost pet (which should be returned, not kept) or a wild tortoise (which is protected by law). Contact local wildlife services or a reptile rescue. Taking a wild tortoise is a criminal offence in most European member states and in many other jurisdictions.

Where tortoises should come from

• Adoption is the ITTA's preferred route — many Mediterranean tortoises are surrendered every year by keepers who could not commit for the long term
• Reputable, licensed captive breeders who can provide an Article 10 certificate (in EU member states, for protected species) and detailed parentage
• Never from holiday markets, roadside sellers, or any vendor who cannot identify the species and confirm its captive-bred status

The law where you live

Most Mediterranean tortoise species are protected under CITES Appendix II, and Annex A in the EU. They cannot be sold without proper documentation. In Singapore, the Animal & Veterinary Service (AVS) maintains a strict list of which chelonians may be kept as pets and which require AVS approval; tropical species like the red-footed tortoise are increasingly available through licensed importers. In the UAE, the Ministry of Climate Change and Environment regulates all imports of CITES-listed species, and a permit is required for keeping any tortoise. Always check the law in your own country and region before acquiring a tortoise. Your ITTA Field Officer will verify your local compliance as part of the licence review.